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Wednesday, January 26, 2005


Marco Sasia for The New York Times
Lingotto, formerly a factory, will hold the Winter Olympics ice skating events next year.


Marco Sasia for The New York Times
Mole Antonelliana's spire.


Marco Sasia for The New York Times
Al Bicerin is one of the city's historic cafes.


The New York Times
Map of Turin. Numbers on this map correspond to numbers in the article.

January 23, 2005
GOING TO
Turin
By ERIC SYLVERS

Why Go Now

Because in 2006, when friends are bragging about going to Turin for the Winter Olympics, you can say: "Oh, I went there last year. You really must check out this great focacceria on the Via Perrone."

Detractors say Turin is Calvinistic and reserved. The locals nod in agreement mostly because they want to distinguish themselves from fashion-obsessed Milan, 90 miles to the east. Do not be fooled. Turin is full of life, and like their compatriots to the south, its citizens spend their fair share of time congregating in numerous squares, strolling through the heart of town or chatting in a cafe.

Turin is transforming itself from a faded industrial powerhouse (home to Fiat) into a city capable of impressing the world as host to the 2006 Winter Olympics. Val di Susa and Val Chisone, site of the skiing events, are a 90-minute drive from Turin - too far to make the city an après-ski destination, but close enough to make a day trip practically mandatory.

Where to Stay

The nicest places are around the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the Piazza San Carlo or in the Quadrilatero Romano.

Just a step from the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the (1) Casa Marga, at Via Bava, 1 Bis, (39-011) 883-892, offers Italian hospitality at budget prices. Margareta Corongiu rents out the two front rooms of her house and treats you like family. One room has a full-size bed in a loft and a sofa bed (twin) below; the other has a twin bed. Both rooms, clean and simple, have private baths. Breakfast, often with jam and yogurt made by Margareta, is included. The double is $87, at $1.34 to the euro (discounts for stay of four days or more).

Although the lobby of the (2) Hotel Dogana Vecchia, Via Corte d'Appello, 4, (39-011) 436-6752, with its vaulted ceiling, white columns and elaborate glass chandeliers, is quite a bit more regal than the rooms, this is a pleasant place to stay for the sense of the city's former grandeur that it provides. Illustrious former guests are said to have included Verdi, Mozart and Napoleon. Doubles: $140 to $160.

(3) Le Meridien Lingotto Art & Tech, Via Nizza, 262, (39-011) 664-2000 or (800) 543-4300, is part of a former Fiat factory converted by the architect Renzo Piano into a complex with two hotels, a conference center, museum and shopping area. It is a few miles south of the main train station and can be reached by tram or taxi. Standard rooms - simply furnished, with cherrywood paneling and sleek desks - are $536 (suites, $1,340), with a special weekend rate of $200.

Where to Eat

(4) Porto di Savona, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 2, (39-011) 817-3500, serves reasonably priced food in a casual, homey atmosphere. The intimate setting - several small rooms with wood paneling and photos of Turin's glory years as Savoy's capital - and general lack of tourists make this a good place to sample local specialties such as agnolotti (raviolilike pasta filled with beef or lamb), bollito misto (a variety of boiled meats) and trout in a hazelnut sauce. A three-course dinner for two (without wine) costs $80.

Alessandro Boglione, the head chef at (5) AB+, Via della Basilica, 13, (39-011) 439-0618, defines his creations as modern Mediterranean. Recent dishes have included a warm, creamy broccoli soup with grilled squid and thyme. Nothing is dull and everything is utterly fresh. AB+ has been open only since mid-October, but word is spreading fast, making reservations a necessity to get a table alongside the eclectic clientele that includes some of Turin's most prominent figures. The lighting is dim and the tables are far enough apart to allow some privacy. Two people can eat their fill for $100 before tacking on the wine, which runs the gamut all the way to $135 bottles of Barolo. Open for dinner only; closed Sunday.

Pizza by the slice is plentiful around town, and some of the best is at the (6) (7) Antica Focacceria Genovese, at Via Perrone, 2, and Via San Domenico, 24. You will find specialties from Liguria, Piedmont's southern neighbor, such as farinata (a chickpea flat bread). About $2 a slice.

Turin's historic cafes, some of which date back more than 200 years, are wonderful for people-watching or just plain resting. (8) Al Bicerin, Piazza della Consolata, 5, is near the market in Porta Palazzo, making it an ideal place to fuel up before the shopping trip or to recompose afterward. The specialty is the bicerin ($5.35), a calorie bomb made with coffee, chocolate and cream, definitely worth a stop. Closed Wednesday.

(9) At Caffè Torino, Piazza San Carlo, 204, if you order one sweet, the tuxedo-clad waiters bring you a selection of several similar ones (but you are charged only for the ones you eat). A regal winding staircase and marble fireplaces may make you want to sit and sip, but just be aware that a cappuccino served at the table ($6) costs three times what it does at the bar.

What to Do During the Day

Be sure to explore the Via Garibaldi (a milelong pedestrian mall) and the Via Po (one of the best examples of the city's arcaded thoroughfares and a local favorite for its book stalls, elegant stores and cafes), but also some of the tiny back streets in the Quadrilatero Romano.

The blockbuster exhibition "Impressionists and the Snow" runs until April 25 at (10) Promotrice delle Belle Arti, Via Balsamo Crivelli, 11, in the Parco del Valentino, and includes paintings by Monet, Manet, Gauguin, Pissarro and Munch - on loan from museums and collections around the world. Try going early (doors open at 9 a.m.) or at lunch to avoid the biggest crowds. Information: (39-0438) 221-306. Admission $13.40.

The (11) Mole Antonelliana, a stunning structure that stands out in Turin's mostly uniform skyline, contains the National Museum of Cinema, Via Montebello, 20, (39-011) 812-5658, [url]www.museonazionaledelcinema.org.[/url] When construction began in the 1860's, the Mole was intended to become a synagogue. Now it contains props, sets, posters and scripts tracing the development of moviemaking. Ride the glass elevator to the lookout platform, from where you can gaze at the nearby Alps. Admission $7; with elevator ticket, $9.10. The museum is closed Monday.

The (12) Egyptian Museum, Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6, (39-011) 561-7776, contains artifacts spanning virtually the entire history of Egyptian culture, though a lack of English panels beyond the first rooms can be disorienting; $8.70. Closed Monday.

What to Do at Night

(13) Teatro Regio, Piazza Castello, 215, [url]www.teatroregio.torino.it[/url] (Italian only), (39-011) 8815-557 (information) or (39-011) 8815-241 (tickets), the city's opera house, is presenting "Don Giovanni" at the end of January and early February, followed in March by "Il Trovatore." Tickets run from $23 to $205.

To rub elbows with an eclectic mix of young, hip locals, try the new AB+ (downstairs from the restaurant with the same name, above). Live music a few nights a week, when the large crowd gets larger. No cover. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Below street level on both sides of the Ponte Vittorio Emanuele you will find lots of bars and dance places. The area, known as I Murazzi, slows down in the winter, but there is always some sign of life, including at the

(14) Beach, a disco north of the bridge ([url]www.thebeachtorino.it[/url]), and (15) Giancarlo, a bar south of the bridge that attracts Turin's alternative crowd. Things are generally at their liveliest from 11 p.m. to 2 a.m.

Where to Shop

The Via Garibaldi has boutiques, while the Via Roma has the more famous fashion names. For a great selection of local sweets such as marron glacé, try (16) Pasticceria Ghigo, Via Po, 52. Closed Tuesday and Sunday afternoon.

At the enormous daily market at the (17) Porta Palazzo, in the Piazza della Repubblica, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. (closed Sunday), you will find fruit, vegetables and probably anything else you might be looking for, whether it's a coat hook or a frying pan. On Saturday the market spills into the surrounding streets; on the second Sunday of the month there is also an antiques market.

How to Stay Wired

Internet cafes are still rare. At (18) 1PC4You, Via Giuseppe Verdi, 20G, you can log on for $2.70 to $4 an hour.

Your First Time or 10th

Have a light breakfast of pastries and cappuccino at (19) La Drogheria, Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18, (39-011) 812-2414, while reading one of the international newspapers on one of its relaxing couches, and then head to the nearby (20) Parco del Valentino for a meander along the Po, just as captivating with a splendidly shining sun as with fog so thick that you can't see the other side.

How to Get There

There are no nonstop flights from New York. Alitalia (about $490), Delta ($525), Lufthansa ($550) and Air France ($600) all fly to Turin with one stopover.

Getting Around

Turin's relatively small city center makes slow-paced strolling the best way to move about. But these tram lines come in handy: No. 13 cuts through the center connecting the Piazza Vittorio Veneto with the Porta Susa train station; No. 15 links Piazza Vittorio Veneto with the Porta Nuova train station; No. 16 runs a line from Parco del Valentino to Piazza Vittorio Veneto and on to Porta Palazzo. Tram fare: $1.20.

[url]http://travel2.nytimes.com/2005/01/23/travel/23goingto.html[/url]

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