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Houston Filmmakers and Actors: Shadows on the Wall

Wednesday, January 26, 2005

Shadows on the Wall


The Gothic hulk on Central Park West, once a cancer hospital, then a scandal-ridden nursing home, is being reborn as a luxury condominium.

January 23, 2005
Shadows on the Wall
By JIM RASENBERGER

ON a late night in the early 1980's, Mary Beth Polasek, accompanied by her then-husband, Ted, and a friend named Charlie, ventured into the old castle on Central Park West and 106th Street. Guided by the beams of their flashlights, they creaked up the stairs to the top floor, passed through a wide hall, then entered one of the turrets. The circular room was vast and empty, and littered with chunks of plaster. The high conical roof, damaged years earlier in a fire, gaped open to the elements and the dim stars.

Long ago, the building had been the notorious Towers Nursing Home, and long before that, the renowned New York Cancer Hospital. Now it was an abandoned ruin. Everyone in the neighborhood simply called it "the castle" because its gray stone walls, five turrets and gabled dormers all gave it the countenance of a Gothic fortress. Like any castle worthy of the name, this one was gloomy and forbidding. Stray cats slinked through the weeds and rubbish. Next door, the Castle Hotel ran a brisk trade in prostitution and crack.

Ms. Polasek should have been afraid that night, but she was not. "I've seen a lot of ghosts since then," she said recently. "But I didn't see any that night. I wasn't spooked. We were young and foolish. We were crazy, happy kids."

Before leaving, Ms. Polasek rescued a few discarded artifacts. In one room, she came upon an "unspeakably lovely" antique wooden toilet. In another, she discovered sepia-stained photographs of men and women spilling out of several open suitcases. Ms. Polasek, an artist, took the photographs home and set them into a collage. "They must be the people who lived there," she said. "I wanted to save them."

Only later did it occur to her that their spirits might have been present the night she entered the castle. Or, more to the point, that they are still there today, looking down in shock from their spectral perches as 455 Central Park West - as the castle was recently christened - is reborn as a luxury condominium.

Ms. Polasek will not be among those moving in. "As much as I would love to have $7 million for an apartment," she said, "I would never want to live in a building that I think is probably haunted."

This sentiment is shared by many who have lived near the castle through its long demise and, now, its astonishing transformation. Whether they believe the castle is literally haunted by the dead or only figuratively haunted by the past, many Manhattan Valley residents find its restoration strangely unsettling, not to mention utterly incongruous with the dilapidated ruin they came to know and even love.

Next month, with most of the units in its new adjoining 26-story high-rise already taken, 17 apartments in the landmark castle will be finished and ready for occupancy. Priced from $3.5 million to $7 million, the apartments will feature cavernous circular living rooms with lofty ceilings and splendid park views, and will include such amenities as a spa, an indoor lap pool, and 24-hour concierge service. As the sales brochure puts it, residents will be bathed in "surpassing opulence" and "timeless elegance," while "reverently preserved architectural details echo a grander age."

Not to be heard among the echoes is a word about the actual past of the building. The omission is slightly ludicrous but entirely predictable. As anyone who has lived in New York longer than a few weeks knows, the past is easily discarded in this city. Buildings change, their contents shift, and eventually just about everybody who knew what was once where forgets or dies.

This truth is hard enough to accept when it applies to a favorite corner restaurant; harder still when it applies to a building with a troubling past. Surely such buildings have earned themselves immunity from forgetfulness.

In fact, though, they have not. Addresses that once seared themselves into the city's consciousness - the Kew Gardens foyer where Kitty Genovese was slain by a psychopath in 1964; the Greenwich Village brownstone where Joel Steinberg beat his daughter and wife in the 1980's - are forgotten. The Octagon Tower on Roosevelt Island, once home of the forlorn New York City Lunatics Asylum, is about to be incorporated into a mixed-income housing development. The former Asch Building near Washington Square, where 146 people perished in the 1911 Triangle Waist Company fire, now thrives as a biology building at New York University.

It's a good bet that most New Yorkers could not identify that building if they walked right past it, a memory lapse that would have been unthinkable to anyone who lived here in 1911 - nearly as unthinkable as the possibility that future New Yorkers will be unable to identify the spot where the World Trade Center once stood.

Morphine and Champagne

Nothing as harrowing as the Triangle fire ever occurred at 455 Central Park West, but the building has endured a good deal of misfortune. When the New York Cancer Hospital was founded in the 1880's, cancer was widely considered incurable, as well as contagious and shameful. The hospital was the country's first to devote itself exclusively to the care of cancer patients, and every effort was made to build a state-of-the-art facility equal to the task.

Inspired as much by modern medical theory as by 16th-century French chateaux, the architect Charles Haight's round towers were designed to deter germs and dirt from accumulating in sharp corners. An airshaft running vertically through the center of each tower - the very latest in 19th-century ventilation technology - prevented air from stagnating in the wards. Altogether, commended The New York Times in 1888, the features marked "a new departure in hospital construction and make this admirable structure a model of its kind."

For all the purified air, tragedy seeped quickly into the hospital's thick walls. One of its chief benefactors, Elizabeth Hamilton Cullum, died of uterine cancer within months of laying the cornerstone. Another, Charlotte Augusta Astor (she and her husband, John Jacob Astor III, donated most of the money) died of cancer a week after the hospital opened in December 1887, missing her chance to be cured.

Not that she could have been cured. Treatment for cancer was mostly palliative in those days. Many patients who came to West 106th came, in effect, to die, assuaged by morphine, whiskey and Champagne. (Tellingly, the hospital spent more on alcoholic beverages than on medical supplies.) Other forms of relief included carriage rides in Central Park and Sunday services in the hospital's Chapel of St. Elizabeth of Hungary, patron saint of the suffering.

Largely because cancer remained so deadly, the hospital soon ran into money troubles. It came to be known as "the Bastille," a place to be feared and avoided by patients and patrons. In 1899, in an effort to attract more of both, administrators of the beleaguered hospital changed its name to the General Memorial Hospital for the Treatment of Cancer and Allied Diseases.

The new name heralded a golden age for the hospital - a positively glowing age, in fact. Using radium, the radioactive material discovered in 1898 by Marie and Pierre Curie, doctors at Memorial pioneered new techniques to burn away cancers with X-rays. By 1920, Memorial was among the world's leading cancer hospitals. It was also the country's single largest repository of radium, holding just shy of four grams (valued at $400,000) in a brick and steel vault. The following year, Madame Curie herself came to West 106th Street to admire the hospital's advancements.

In retrospect, early radiation treatments were often worse than the disease they were meant to cure. Radiation caused severe burns and, in some cases, additional cancers. There may have been cause for hope at West 106th Street, but there was no end to suffering, a suffering made all the more dreadful by the vision, through the windows, of a smokestack to the west of the main building. Back there was the crematorium.

Only after Memorial moved out of the building to the East Side of Manhattan (where it expanded into the present day Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center) did life at the castle reach its full measure of dreadfulness. In 1955, the building became the Towers Nursing Home, the largest and most infamous member of a nursing home empire run by Bernard Bergman and his family. By the early 1970's, the Towers was at the center of state and federal investigations into Medicaid fraud and other crimes.

In the meantime, the home's elderly charges went neglected. A Times reporter visiting in 1974 noted that patients looked bleary-eyed and stupefied. Floors were filthy, and a "pervasive odor" tainted the air. Patients testified to "atrocious conditions," including inadequate heat, pest infestations and physical abuse.

The nursing home was finally closed in 1974. There was talk of tearing it down, but in 1976, the Landmarks Preservation Commission designated the building a landmark, thereby condemning it not to the wrecking ball but to slow death by decrepitude.

Where Beasts Were Born (on Film)

It was during this third, and seemingly terminal, stage of the castle's life that many Manhattan Valley residents first came to know it. Even those who never dared set foot in the place felt its gravitational pull. Michael Kelly, a local filmmaker, often trained his camera on the building for hours at a time, transfixed. Gary Dennis, now owner of a neighborhood video store, recalls sneaking out at lunch from Public School 145 to surveil the castle with his friends.

"We never got real close," Mr. Dennis said. "It was too scary."

Among Mr. Dennis's current wares is a 1982 movie entitled "Q: The Winged Serpent." The plot concerns a dragonlike beast that lives atop the Chrysler Building and preys on Manhattanites. In the last shot, after the beast has been slain and order restored, the camera pans down 106th Street, into a burnt-out turret of the castle, then closes in on a giant egg hidden inside the ruin. The castle was exactly the sort of place you'd expect to find the giant egg of a man-eating serpent.

Years passed, and trees grew from the mortar between the bricks. Mysterious fires lit the roof, graffiti blemished the walls. But as it crumbled, its allure grew. Martha Flach, a graduate student at Columbia in the early 90's, was intrigued enough to devote her master's thesis to the building. The project required frequent excursions to what was then a dicey neighborhood.

"I'd go to photograph it, and the police would see this skinny white girl and tell me to be careful," said Ms. Flach, who now works for the World Monuments Fund. "But the people who lived around there, even the drug dealers and the prostitutes, were always coming up to me to ask me questions about it. They were fascinated."

Occasionally, a developer expressed interest in the property, most promisingly Ian Schrager, the hotel impresario, who bought it in the late 1980's. But inevitably, the deals fell through, and the decay continued.

"We used to stand in the dog park on top of the hill, and people would play this game," Mr. Kelly said. "We called it the Castle Fantasy Game. Given unlimited resources, what would you do with the building?"

A condo might not have been high on anyone's fantasy list, but it was the solution favored by Daniel McLean, the Chicago developer who purchased the property in 2000. He would have many opportunities to regret his decision. No sooner had he secured financing than 9/11 struck, causing the bank to withdraw its loan. After resuming construction a year later, he fired the superintendent, who exacted revenge by reporting the building for health code violations.

"Six weeks into the deal he's calling the city telling them we have dead birds inside and West Nile virus," Mr. McLean said. "It just for some reason was the kind of building that anything that could go wrong, went wrong."

The hardest challenge may be yet to come. Trying to entice very wealthy buyers to live above West 96th Street flies in the face of conventional real estate wisdom. Then there is the building's macabre past. "We obviously don't dwell on that part of the history," Mr. McLean acknowledged. "We don't go into the crematorium part."

At least one buyer has no trouble accepting either the building's location or its history. Daniel Lufkin, founding partner of the securities firm Donaldson, Lufkin & Jenrette, has bought what may be the most spectacular apartment in the complex, if not the city: the former Chapel of St. Elizabeth of Hungary, now a duplex with high arched windows and original wooden beams.

Mr. Lufkin is aware of the building's past, but said it did nothing to dampen his or his wife's ardor. "It could have been a prison and we'd have been interested," he said. "The history is fascinating, but what's really fascinating is the building itself." Mr. Lufkin is convinced that, after a year or so, other buyers will flock in behind. "Everybody and his brother will be trying to move in."

Renovated, Then Resurrected

He may be right, and there, in a nutshell, is the moral of the tale. One person's haunted castle is another's park-vu condo. A building's history, however gripping or traumatic, is not lapidary, not even when posted on a plaque. That buildings find new reasons for being is not in itself a bad thing.

"You go to Rome, you go to Paris, you go to any old city, buildings keep being reused," said Françoise Bollack, an architect and historic preservationist who has studied the castle. "And some of them have really terrible pasts." Formerly Fascist monoliths in Berlin, she points out, are filled with ghosts far less friendly than any likely to haunt the old castle on Central Park West.

Old buildings are there to tell us who we were. When their stories are odd or chilling, all the more reason to listen. The trick, Ms. Bollack said, is to acknowledge a building's previous life while embracing its future. "The past should never be forgotten," she said. Still, she added, "Life goes on."

It's a paradox Ms. Polasek struggles to accept as she watches the neighborhood she has lived in for more than 20 years change under the shadows of the castle that has so long defined it.

"They just put millions of dollars into a place that was falling apart," Ms. Polasek said. "I don't want to be judgmental. I want to try to like what has happened. I want to try to accept that nothing stays the same."

After Ms. Polasek and her husband divorced, a boyfriend persuaded her to purge some of the objects she'd gathered from the castle that night long ago; he thought they reminded her too much of her ex-husband. As she stood by, weeping, he tossed out the old things, including the exquisite toilet, an apt metaphor for flushing away the past.

The boyfriend is gone now, too. Ms. Polasek still has the photographs, though, and on a cold bright day she sat by her window, just a stone's throw from the old castle, looking down at the faces of the dead people. She wishes the castle's new tenants the best. But she is fairly certain they will be sharing the place with ghosts.

This is exactly how it should be. Those who wish to seize the day may go ahead and seize it. Those who care to see the ghosts are free to see them. In a great old building like the castle, there is room for both the living and the dead.

Jim Rasenberger is the author of "High Steel: The Daring Men Who Built the World's Greatest Skyline."

[url]http://www.nytimes.com/2005/01/23/nyregion/thecity/23feat.html[/url]

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